Stock deck

[Weslman]

So I got my 07 tC all wired up for an amp with a capacitor last night love how all the wires were easily hidden.. Unfortunately the last step was plugging rcas into the deck and realized the stock deck has no RCA ports on it.. Aside from a new deck what are my options here? There is one unused port in the deck is there some factory adapter for RCA cables?

[Weslman]

Ps... Lame how I have to have a certain amount of posts to read certain things lol

[Weslman]

After calling around and reading stuff online basically the only option I have is a new deck which I cant afford at the moment or a line output converter. I bought a 30 dollar converter and they told me I could hook it uP to the front speakers rather than the back ones my question is which wires are the speaker wires in the harness?? I have not yet read the instructions but I'm guessing I cut them and splice in the converter?

[Shaheed]

I have a 05 tC and I'm wondering the same. Id like to leave my stock unit in and maybe eventually buy a head unit. What's the best way to go about installing an amp and sub to stock unit? Can it be done?

[navylife59]

WAIT!!!!!!!!DO NOT CUT YOUR HARNESS!!!!!!!!

That should be the very possibly last thing that you ever want to do and for many reasons.
1. Most likely that you will upgrade to a more adept vehicle for your needs when you can afford to. If you do purchase an aftermarket headunit, it is a cinch to put back the OEM model. No one will give you anything about blue book value for sale or trade-in for any aftermarket electronics, save for, an individual that really wants the car as is and will pay for that.
2. If you stuff ever gets stolen, there is more likely a chance that the thief might actually unplug the radio, instead of, slashing and ripping out part of the harness.
3. Easier to do. Just plain simple; unplug/plug connectors is alot easier than splicing wires.
4. Almost zero chance of letting a gremlin into your audio/electrical system with a wire harness adapter.


You have a couple of options at this point but let me point out something about what you were told first. If you are going to tap into the factory harness, it would be done at the back of the radio. There is where you would find all of the speaker wires. If you were going to use a line converter or your amplifier has a high-level (speaker) input, you really want it tagged onto the rear speakers. This would give you the ability to change the level of your bass output with the fader, instead of, lowering your bass tone for all output. You can leave the rear speakers connected and adjust the amp gain accordingly or you can leave them disconnected so that you can drive the amp to the max w/o clipping the radio's amplifier section which causes distortion. That is what I suggest.

Aftermarket car audio wiring colors have been standardized since the early-mid 80's. Some aftermarket radios might have extra wiring (reverse, PB, mute, etc) or a variation of the illumination colors, but they are pretty much the same for power and speakers. This is NOT true for OEM wiring. I am not sure as to the extent of wire color code standardization in the alarm market.

METRA/EIA Wiring Color Code
12 Volt.............................Red
Memory...........................Yellow
Ground............................Black
Power Antenna................Blue
Amp remote....................Blue / White
Illumination......................Orange
Dimmer............................Orange / White
Grounding Dimmer..........Orange / Black
Right Front (+).................Gray
Right Front (-)..................Gray / Black
Left Front (+)...................White
Left Front (-)....................White / Black
Right Rear (+).................Violet
Right Rear (-)..................Violet / Black
Left Rear (+)....................Green
Left Rear (-).....................Green / Black



The other options is to buy one already pre-made. This was professionally done by me using a set up Metra Speakerworks 70-1761 (aftermarket headunit), 71-1761 (OEM headunit), and a PAC Model# SNI-15 Output Adpator. The harnesses are the standard for most Toyota models since the mid-90's. All connections are silver soldered and protected by heatshrink tubing for a MIL-Spec type connection. The foreground connection is all that is needed if you are going to put your amp turn-on to a switch. I used the other one to run the turn-on from the headunit simply because both plugs come as a set in the packaging. $40 plus shipping and it's yours.

[Shaheed]

Would this not work?

Amplifier Amp Interface Adapter Wiring Wire Harness 8 | eBay

[navylife59]

The OEM headunit has two unused connectors on the back. One is for the SAT Radio interface and the other is for the OEM sub. Originally this was the VSE enclosure for the right rear corner of the cargo area. It contained a Bazooka dual-coil 10" sub powered by an anemic 50Wx2 2-ch amp inside the ported enclosure. Those are peak Watts not RMS Watts. The 6" Pioneer under-deck box with less power came out in 2007 with the RS3.0 as standard and standard on base models beginning in 2008.

If you are looking to not run RCA (low-level) patch cords to the rear (expensive) and you have the OEM under-deck or the VSE unit, you can just cut/splice into the harness already there in the cargo area. The power/ground will not be sufficient for any real amplifiers but the speaker (high) level inputs and the turn-on lead should serve you well.


Again, I have a T-harness cable that I did not use when I installed the VSE unit in my RS3.0 (use to be my Son's). I just spliced into the under-deck wiring and removed the speaker/amp from that. It is not like the Scion option installed at the port as it does not use the empty amplifier connector on the back of the radio. It actually is a T-harness on the main plug similar to the one in my earlier post. Please note that it does not have a PAC adapter on it. The end is cut and ready for splicing. This harness will go for $25 plus shipping Helloween Special. All guaranteed to work.