2nd gear grinding

[xlxhockeyxlx]

Can anyone tell me why second gear doesnt like to shift. It just grinds at anything above like 2500 rpms. I can get it in if i shift pretty heavy (basically just throw it hard into gear ). I have just under 100K on the car (99892). I really hope this isnt a full transmission thing, or really a gear problem, i feel either of those are gonna be pricy. Could it be transmission fluid? or maybe the mechanism that selects the gear? This only happens in second, and yes i am disengaging the clutch.

[connman429]

It sounds like a synchro problem. Try double-clutching and see if that helps. It wouldn't hurt to check the oil level in the MT, but that will usually create a more noticeable issue in 1st and reverse. The most expensive part of a tranny job on a tC is the removal and reinstallation, due to the amount of interference (both axle shafts, battery, engine has to be lowered to an angle). If you are going to take it to a mechanic, use the dealership or somebody with a reputation for being honest. There is a lot that can be messed up, then covered up when pulling it out.

[navylife59]

Assuming that you have a gear grinder (manual trans), it is most likely your 2nd gear synchromesh gear. This allows you to shift between gears without rev matching or double-clutching. This can happen over time from excessive wear caused by a worn clutch, too much dead play in the clutch pedal, grinding the gear, or trying to do clutchless shifting. I have found that too much torque built up from doing a rolling launch in 1st gear that I have to let off the throttle to slightly lower the torque or my synchro won't mesh properly when engaging in second which results in either a missed shift (grinding the gear) or not getting the throw to 2nd. I believe that part of the issue is the clutch springs (stock) are over-torqued and the excessive dead play in my pedal. I also have an STS along with a short-throw shifter that compounds the issue.

Either way, it is most likely going to mean a transmission rebuild or replace clutch. There is a slim, small chance that bleeding the clutch master/slave units can alleviate the issue so try that first. When was the trans fluid service last? Along with bleeding the clutch, clean synthetic gear oil might help some as well. Try those methods out first before seeking an expensive tranny overhaul.


E-350 TRANSAXLE
OUTPUT SHAFT COMPONENTS


Read these Tech Articles as well.

http://www.club-tc.com/forums/engine...e-removal.html
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/engine...e-install.html

You can also try this out to see if you have excessive dead play in the pedal that may have been the cause the damage.
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/genera...djustment.html

[xlxhockeyxlx]

Not sure when the transmission fluid was last changed, bought the car used at 72K. So if its the synchros its a full rebuild? I've noticed it doesnt happen all the time, mostly while downshifting, but i usually rev match ( not saying every time because going into corners hard to keep foot on gas and brake and keep it balanced). But anyways, much much is a full transmission rebuild or the manual tC?
Also, it seems to help if 1-2nd gear I pull all the way left and down. Is there any lateral play mechanically that could be causing the issue?

[connman429]

IIRC, the synchro set is under the black cover panel at the outer end of the tranny(driver side while installed). Synchros can be replaced without doing a full rebuild; however, I'm not sure there is room to work with the tranny installed. Always go with the cheapest fix 1st. Take Navy's advice and change the fluid with a quality SAE 90 or 75w90 synthetic, then check your clutch pedal free play.

I know it would not be ideal, but if 2nd gear is the only gear you are having problems with, you can work around it by revving 1st, then jump to 3rd on the way up. You can also double-clutch every transition into 2nd. My Dad had a '79 Alfa Romeo Spider,which were notorious for synchro issues. He drove that car for five summers, commuting 45 miles one way, without fixing it and never had any other problems.

[xlxhockeyxlx]

hmm well eventually i wanna replace the transmission, actually theres not much i dont wanna replace. I wanna make an AWD tC with about 350-400 WHP, hopefully make is street legal. haha big dreams right? but i really just want a sick street car i built and i love the tC

[connman429]

I know what you mean about big dreams. I have a few myself! What you are describing is a retuned WRX STI or Evo 9 MR with a larger turbo; yank the entire drivetrain (don't forget the ECU) and bolt it underneath the tC. That is probably the most cost-effective method. Using the entire drivetrain will also make future maintenance easier than a frankenstein will!

[navylife59]

Well, I am not sure what has been happening to my posts as my last reply did not go through. To reiterate, I apologize for be repetitious of what connman429 had already stated. My first post was started 25 minutes after your thread was created but took me over an hour to finish the reply. I have two rambunctious boys at home that need "Daddy time". I have been banging away on my near outdated old laptop since my newer imploded.

I agree with all that connman429 has stated. If it does come down to a rebuild of some magnitude, I have the repair manual on this that I can post up. I am fairly certain that the trans will have to be dropped and worked on in a clean area like a work bench with a thick plastic sheet and indoors preferably to keep the trans from being contaminated. The synchros are on the input shaft and to access it requires the case to be cracked open and removed. The input shaft should be removed and put in a vise to separate the gears and synchros. I have removed the front K-member from a parts tC to replace the one on a friend's tC. He curbed his car pretty bad and it damaged his K-member. It was fairly easy to do with air tools. Once you have that removed, you are over half way to dropping the transmission. Would be the perfect time to install an Energy Suspension master kit, a beefier swaybar (if you plan on frequenting track days a lot), and to upgrade the front coilovers.

[connman429]

Repetition of statements can be a good thing; it lets the reader know he's not getting a smoke job!!

Hockey, if you do decide to do this on your own, shoot me a pm and we can exchange contact info. I did a DIY limited slip install, which entails full transaxle breakdown, so I have 1st hand knowledge of some things that aren't in the shop tech manual.

[navylife59]

Care to shed light on that subject? My spare trans has been sitting on my bench waiting for such an install. Let's see, I have had Quaife LSD since it first came out. It was out of the original batch that was made by Quaife before they pulled it to rebrand as TRD. I also have a bunch of goodies to install but waiting to do them all at once.

[xlxhockeyxlx]

is thought LSD's only really helped RWD and AWD cars. I thought it helped with power and traction for cornering.

[navylife59]

Any vehicle can benefit from an LSD. There are different types of LSD based on what the vehicle is and it's intended use; drag, road, dirt track racing, and rock crawling.

[connman429]

The most noticeable improvement specific to the tC would be an almost complete elimination of torque steer during a hard launch.

Navy, I would be more than happy to post all the info I can think of. Give me a few days to get some paperwork completed and review the tech manual (I've slept a few times since doing this mod and need to jog some memories!).

[navylife59]

Ya, torque steer is a biotch when your engine torque is substantially increased. Rutted asphalt really pronounces this problem. I can actually leave rubber on the pavement from both wheels in a burn-out with the stock diff but only get one wheel primarily on a drag launch. Somewhere I posted a pict and explanation of this.