Most effective next upgrade

[vincentgt2]

I have a white 2005 scion tc 5speed. I have the stock rims painted black an evo 2 cat back and im not really sure what i want to do next. I want more power but im also fairly unhappy with the brakes and have been thinking of upgrading them in some way beyond new pads.

Im thinking i will most likely get a CAI next but im unsure whether i should go name brand or pepboys brand. But at the same time I want headers but am worried in both cases about getting it inspected but that comes in 2 years anyway.

Im looking for the next $300-500 upgrade that will give me a nice gain in power.

[navylife59]

1. Quick and easy brake upgrade: Start off with stainless steel braided brake lines then upgraded to cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors. This 2 items will make the stock brakes come alive. You can upgrade to a more aggressive set of pads if you need more. BBK or upsized rotors are really not needed. Sticky set of performance tires will make a big difference in braking distance.
2. CAI: Definately go with a brandname. Don't skimp here. Cheap is just that; cheap.
3. If headers are your desire, then you will want to upgrade to the WR 4-2-1 header w/ s-pipe. It is an easy install and will provide the best power increase. Keep your stock parts in storage for use when you have to get inspected.
4. For just over a c-note (a Benjamin) you can get a LW crank pulley. A little harder install but worth it for the quicker revving.
5. You need to think about stiffening up your chassis and suspension. Front Strutbar and upgraded rear swaybar. Lowering springs will help tremendously but not required if you choose not to lower your ride. There are different springs that offer various levels of lowering.
6. This will provide you a good start. If you desire more, then it will be time to upgrade to more higher performance parts.

[punk2m1d]

:BUMP:

I like the casual feel of the brakes durring DD, I hate brakes that feel like you're slamming on them with even the slightest touch; but when it comes to quick stops at faster speeds, they feel a little light. Would SS braided brake lines and/or drilled rotors cause my brakes to grip way too strong?

What else can I do to my car? I know I just opened Pandora's Box, but I'd really like to get my car goin faster. I have about a G saved up right now. I know that reliable, quality car parts cost a lot. What are the bennifits, if any, of smaller mods such as spark plugs, grounding upgrade, pulleys, header/s pipe, etc? Thank you for any and all opinions on such a wide open and vague question.

[navylife59]

• No need to change plugs till you boost.
• A quality LW crank pulley (NST, Agency Power, Unorthodox) will give happy smiles and instant gratification to the butt dyno.
• NST makes an LW 20% underdriven, LW 20% overdriven, a normal LW alternator pulley, and LW water pump pulley. All can free up some ponies. Don't recommend the underdriven crank pulley for those that live in hot weather climates, losts of stop and go traffic, or make frequent short trips. The 20% underdriven alternator pulley is not recommended if you have alot of ICE or a high amperage amplifier. Not sure if it would cause issue with HIDs.
• Go with the Weapon R 4-2-1 header. Comes with s-pipe and great power/sound.
• OEM ignition coilpacks are fine.
• Grounding upgrade? Not really needed for the tC, but if it will make you feel better, save the money and just use quality 4ga automotive amp power wire and lugs. Inexpensive and easy. Just replace the factory grounds or just add to them. It is all about ground differential so make sure that it is good metal-to-metal contact.
• SS brake lines, drilled/slotted rotors, or upgraded pads will make your car stop uber fast, but will have no adverse affects on driveability or longevity of parts. Just be sure to use only quality parts.
• OEM intake manifold is fine to you have a fully built motor.
• BC Stage 1 cams. These bump sticks are the way to go for making more HP/torque without fully built motor or boost.
• Once your building power over stock, you should be looking for a LW flywheel and clutch upgrade. The TRD LSD should be on the list too. Until that time, an engine torque dampner might suffice. For all out, Energy Suspension master bushing kit.
• Above all, build your car to handle the power and extra performance before you start boosting. Upgrading brakes, tires, and suspension are key to keeping you safe and your car on the road. Too many peeps have dumped in a turbo kit and then flip or wrap their beloved tC around something. Good news from bad is the tC is tough and gets you through safely.
• Many part suppliers and retailers sell items that were originally designed for other vehicles but just are not needed on the tC. Examples are
  1. Radiator air deflector panels - This area is already sealed when the hood is shut.
  2. Ignition equalizers - The OEM coilpacks are individually wired and the ground leads are common.
  3. Gounding kits - The tC and 2AZ-FE motor are already sufficiently grounded.
  4. CAI - The tC already has a CAI, but a good quality aftermarket unit can boost intake efficiency.
  5. Coilover suspension (non adjustable)- The tC already has a coilover suspension
  6. Adjustable rear camber links - Only for suspension drops beyond 1.5" rear. The tC rear member has camber adjustment up to that point.
  7. Rear strut bar - Rear subframe and cross-member sufficiently and effectively connect rear strut mounts together.
  8. LW wheels - The OEM 17" wheels are very light compared to other aftermarket wheels of the same size.
  9. Aftermarket CDI coilpacks - OEM coilpacks are completely sufficient until a fully built motor with higher rev limit is realized.
  10. Piggyback controllers - Will do nothing or even hurt performance on a stock-to-near-stock motor. The ECM has control and does a good job of maintaining performance and saftey. Until a built motor, boost, cams, or NO2; don't waste your money.
  11. TB spacers or any type - Plastic Intake manifold and fuel injection precludes any benefit that these spacers can provide. Some even hurt performance.
  12. Chips - Toyota ECMs are fully encrypted and cannot be chipped nor flashed (beyond that of the TRD S/C map).
  13. Turbonator -Need I say more!?

OK, with your G note, here are my upgrade recommendations for performance. This is assuming that you are bone stock (save your axle-back) so it will work for just about anybody starting out. Recommendations are based on cost, ease of install, and bang for the buck. Listed in order of install.

1. Redline or Royal Purple Water wetter.
2. Synthetic motor oil.
3. Synthetic maual trans gearbox oil.
4. Synthetic power steering additive
   *** CAUTION: Power Steering fluid is ATF (transmission fluid). Standard power steering fluid or additive for such WILL damage your power steering system!
5. Quality CAI intake.
6. LW crank, water pump, and normal alternator pulley. You can go with 20% underdriven alternator pulley as specified above.
7. Weapon R 4-2-1 header/s-pipe.
8. Front strut bar
9. Hotchkis Stage 1 TVS suspension upgrade. The front swaybar does not have to be installed (ease of install).
10. SS brake lines - Use only high quality.
11. Motul brake fluid
12. Cross-drilled/slotted rotors from RotorPros.
13. Upgraded performance tires.
14. Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit - Very involved process; time consuming. May deflect to an engine torque dampner from Ingalls or WR.
    
    

[punk2m1d]

Wow, Awesome. I have a lot to chew on now. The 3 that jump out to me are: cams, LW pully, and the SS brake lines. I'm gonna go read up on this forum as much as I can so I don't have to bother you any more.

I already have some of the mods you listed, which makes me feel better about my purchases.

Thanks for the info!

[navylife59]

Man, your fast! Sorry for such a long delay in responding to you. As always, I have been away on a trip. It is never a bother. Feel free to ask your questions. That is what I am here for.

The SS brake lines in and of themselves really aren't going to change the "brake feel" as much as it will combined with the Motul brake fluid. You have to bleed the system for a line change so doing a full purge fluid change is not that much more to do. For a supergrip stop, the cross-drilled/slotted rotors are going to provide those impressive results that you are looking for. I am still using my original stock pads with no extended wear and she stops on a dime. Bleeding the entrained air from the brake system is key here. Cams can be change without removal of the engine. Car must be taken to keep the timing chain taught when removing cams so as not to skip a tooth or alter the camshaft timing. Also, the lifter buckets have to be mic'd to the proper tolerances so be prepared to order the correct lifter bucket sizes to lash valves to zero.

[punk2m1d]

No worries. I've heard to stay away from drilled rotors because most of them are cast, then drilled, causing stress/weak points. Which brand casts these rotos with the holes already? Slotted rotors diminish the life of your pads right? Any suggestions for brand of ss lines, and rotors?

With the cams do I also need to purchase new valves, injectors, springs, and the such?

[navylife59]

Cams can be a straight drop-in affair (lifter buckets have to be mic'd for zero valve lash) but LW SS valves =/+ 1mm and upgraded valvetrain components only add to the performance increase but not required.

Goodrich makes the best SS brake lines.

Rotor Pros (the ones I have) make high quality units. All cross-drilled/slotted rotors are are cast or machined first before the holes and slots are machined in. Four items of contention in the manufacturing of these rotors cause failure.

1. Poor metallurgy.
2. Imbalance of rotors from the machining process.
3. Too much material removed causing stress fractures.
4. Rough, burred, and oblong drilled holes and burred slots.
5. Holes drilled into vanes structure of vented rotors.
6. Uneven heating of the rotor during the machining process.

Here is my RotorPros rear rotor used for example. I have 48K miles on the original OEM pads. The rotors have been on for about 10-12K miles. There is no degradation in the wear of the pads. I originally painted the rotors when I put them on. Took them off and powdercoated them as an experiment. did not like the colors and currently in the process of spray caliper paint them with Duplicolor kit. I have found absolutely no cracks or stress fractures on these units. They have not been tracked but I drive like I am on the track.

Here is what makes the RotorPros stand out, why I bought them, and what you should demand for on any performance rotor of this type.

1. Metallurgy is the key and proper alloys and controlled heat treating processes are essential.
2. Machined centers on a CNC mill for accuracy within .001". This helps to maintain balance and control heat developed in machining.
3. CNC program has 3-D image map of vane structures in vented rotors and is able to accurately drill in the proper locations to avoid hitting these vanes.
4. Thermodynamic study done to determine appropriate amount of slots and cross-drills without too much material removal that could weaken the rotor.
5. All edges are chamfered to relieve stress points that could cause fractures in holes, slots, and radius edges.
6. Entire assembly is final balanced to close tolerances.

[punk2m1d]

Okay. I've got some shopping to do. I'll let you know what I choose.

On a similar note, does anyone want to donate to the "Daniel works for a non-profit which means he doesn't make much money, but he's in it for the kids, but he is interested in really expensive hobbies such as tattoos and cars so he needs more money... association"??

[navylife59]

Is it tax deductible? Maybe you could reach out and grab some Fed giveaway money?

[Livetoberich]

if i cant sell my car i wanna top to bottom

1: lsd i forgot what it call.. qulifed? LOL but u get the idea.
clutch/ LW flywheel
complete fluid
suspension
brakes
255 welbro
plugs and obx adapter
exhust
TURBO!
last: guage

DONE that IT no more money going into this bad girl till she hit 120k

[navylife59]

What? Sell your tC? For the Love of God and all that is Holy, please don't. Keep her, treat her well, and throw her a few upgrade treats every now and again. It is the best car out there for the money and then some.

OK, enough tC slobbering, here are a few items for your attention.

• The LSD your speaking of is the TRD LSD for manual trans only. It is manufactured by Quaife. It also maybe time to upgrade to performance tires.
• It is best to do your clutch, LW flywheel, and LSD at the same time. It is also a good time to change your brake lines to braided stainless steel, purge and change to a quality synthetic brake fluid like Motul. The hydraulic actuated clutch utilizes the same fluid reservoir as the brakes. Good time to upgrade your pads and/or rotors.
• Brakes and suspension upgrades before you bump the power up. The tC is configured and balanced for power less than 200WHP. Lowering springs, rear swaybar and front strut bar does wonders for handling.
• You won't need the Walbro 255lph intank fuel pump till you upgrade your fuel injectors above 550cc. If you are going with a high performance, quality turbo kit, it should have an upgraded fuel pump.
• Suggest gauges installed before the turbo. These are safety devices that allows you to monitor your engine's performance (aka health) and alert you to any possible issues that could cause damage or failure. The EGT, of course, will have to wait till the turbo manifold is installed.

[Redneck4csa]

Yes, keep your tC. Right now I'm looking into getting a 86 Camaro, but I still plan to keep the tC and work on her when I can

[navylife59]

So Reds, you putting a 2AZ-FE in your biotch'n Camaro?