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aluminum racing radiator any benifits?

This is a discussion on aluminum racing radiator any benifits? within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Scion tC category; Right now my new part on my possibly to get list is a mishimoto aluminum racing radiator are there and ...

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    Default aluminum racing radiator any benifits?

    Right now my new part on my possibly to get list is a mishimoto aluminum racing radiator are there and benifits besides it looks cool? Like is it light weight, keeps the engine temp dwn or anything? Cuz I'm about 2 flush all the collant out and replace with new suff and while I'm doing it I'm going to put on either silicone or those see through glass hoses and tempted to buy a radiator while I'm at it so plz help...

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeman030888 View Post
    Right now my new part on my possibly to get list is a mishimoto aluminum racing radiator are there and benifits besides it looks cool? Like is it light weight, keeps the engine temp dwn or anything? Cuz I'm about 2 flush all the collant out and replace with new suff and while I'm doing it I'm going to put on either silicone or those see through glass hoses and tempted to buy a radiator while I'm at it so plz help...
    The stock OEM radiator is more than fine for a DD. If you are getting into serious racing and racing only, then I would see this upgrade more fit. Yes they are a bit lighter in fact and probably allows for more/better cooling. I am not sure if one is needed when going to F/I, that you may want to check on. I would buy a bottle of Redline Water Wetter, from people I have talked to they say the engine temps are slightly lower and does help. I really like those hoses that KillerGlass makes, a very sick upgrade. I know of a few people who swapped out their fluid w/ fluid from a BMW or Mercedes-Benz and was able to run blue coolant through their hoses which lit up blue as well.
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    Cool thanx I don't think I'm gonna waste the money on 1 then lol I don't go 2 the track enfough to realy make one a good investment... what about unichips? U hear anything good about them cuz I was readin about them and they sound pretty cool just don't know any 1 who has 1 or used it so I need some reviews b4 I drop 400 bucks on 1

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeman030888 View Post
    Cool thanx I don't think I'm gonna waste the money on 1 then lol I don't go 2 the track enfough to realy make one a good investment... what about unichips? U hear anything good about them cuz I was readin about them and they sound pretty cool just don't know any 1 who has 1 or used it so I need some reviews b4 I drop 400 bucks on 1
    That's another good question, and you aren't the first one to ask it either. I enquired about it late last year on this site and other site as well. I will tell you don't waste the money on one. For what your going to spend on the UniChip and maybe get 15-20 HP out of it isn't worth the money. The VVT-i engine doesn't benefit from any chip what so ever, the ECM/ECU that we have works on a learning curve basis, its learns/adjusts as we drive. People that have bought the Unichip found out that they lost HP, ran too rich/too lean and even got CEL's. If you want to gain decent HP/Torque, do a I/H/E, or even step up to a supercharger or turbo application.
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    Cool good thing I asked b4 hand cuz that's 500 bucks I could use towards something else what's a i/h/e? I new to this kinda stuff altho I have been lookin at a turbo kit for mine there is a tunning shop up the rd from my place called ptunning they have a tc that runs 550+ hp it was in modified magazine last month and they specialize in custoomizing tcs and have a full turbo kit with inter cooler and every thing ill need for 4 grand that includs instalation and warrenty.... just need to save up more money

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    You definitely don't need to replace the OEM radiator unless your doing more than a few laps on the track. I second the Redline Water Wetter. The stuff works on a sound chemical basis. I never see much above the middle mark even before I had the vented hood and oil cooler.

    If you want an upgraded radiator, then go for it, however, if money is an issue I would suggest that you put it further down your list. If looks are a concern, then I would suggest the Koyo Rad. It is much nicer and higher quality than Mishimoto. I have seen the Mishimoto for the tC firsthand, but only other car versions for the Koyo Rad.

    FYI, I use only the pink radiator fluid from Toyota. It is chemically balanced for our motors and is already pre-mixed. Thanks to Cadence though, I might be switching to the BMW stuff. I have an affinity for blue ya know.

    Ptuning up the road? Heck, your set. They can take care of you. Several Members go to that shop. Piggybacks, including UniChip, are only going to net gains at WOT on the Dyno. Once the OEM ECM relearns, cut those gains in half. If your setup is too far outside the ECM's learning then driveability might become an issue.
    Last edited by navylife59; Fri., May 14, 2010 at 02:34 PM.
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    I/H/E = Intake, Header, Exhaust
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    Hey, ya'll have to give the guy overseas on the crappy arse network time to post. Glad to finally be on a live thread.
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    FYI

    Stock Radiator (manual)⇒13.35lbs (w/ fan assembly)
    Can't find the weights for the two aftermarket units.

    REF: http://www.club-tc.com/forums/tc-kno...omponents.html
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    Ok cool thought that ment intake header exaust but wasn't 4 sure right now I have a injen cold air intake and the trd exaust and I been lookin around for headers but don't know realy what to get cuz I don't wanna have to get ride of the car or redo a lot of the **** under the car and most like dc sport headers that I've seen say header will replace cat or something like that any sudjestions or headers u have found that will work with the other stuff cuz I don't realy wanna do to much extreme surgry I do almost all the work my self on the car don't like lettin shops do it 4 me

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    There was only one header on the market that had a cat in it and it was a POS. I firmly suggest the WeaponR 4-2-1 header. Slightly higher in price than others on the market, but is better bargain. It is solid built and designed. It also includes an s-pipe which is a known choke point in our exhaust. Changing just the header is rather easy. The WR header would require that you put your car on a lift or on jackstands for access. The mid-pipe has a secondary cat that might just be enough for your emissions inspection.
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    Drove my car back to Texas. It was 103F and the water temps never climbed about 185F. Whether on the highway or idling at a light. This is the OEM radiator filled with Toyota 50/50, Redline Water Wetter, the TRD S/C thermostat (160F), vented hood, and a large oil cooler. The temp today in Texas had the temp gauge up to 107F and the water temps never climbed above 186F.

    On a related side note, the IAT was about 2-3 degrees warmer than the temp indicated on the outside temp gauge on the highway. Idling at the light had the temps go from 104F to 140F. I can see that my SRI is picking up latent heat from under the hood. Now my S/C is running 15PSI at redline with no intercooling method and just the stock ECM with the TRD reflash. The intake charge has to be extremely hot as the motor was pulling back the timing quite a bit. Performance was highly degraded, but car was still very drivable. This should prove that the OEM radiator is completely sufficient for N/A cars and most F/I engines. Aftermarket radiators should be saved for extreme track conditions. Of course, if you want the look for the street, then go ahead. There is nothing wrong with upgrading.
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    mishimoto aluminum racing radiator good quality product and cooling

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    Is the weapon r 4-2-1 header even street legal? Personally, I'd slap it on either way. Just wondering....
    -uni_vision

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    killertc.com lists the mishimoto shipping weight at 18 pounds. This is without the fans. I would roughly figure ten pounds for packing material (Fidenza flywheel weighs 8 pounds and shipping weight was 16). If I had to take a guess at weight reduction, I would say it's two or three pounds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by univision View Post
    Is the weapon r 4-2-1 header even street legal? Personally, I'd slap it on either way. Just wondering....
    With the removal of the primary cat, this would be altering the emissions system and, therefore, illegal in some jurisdictions.

    Quote Originally Posted by connman429 View Post
    killertc.com lists the mishimoto shipping weight at 18 pounds. This is without the fans. I would roughly figure ten pounds for packing material (Fidenza flywheel weighs 8 pounds and shipping weight was 16). If I had to take a guess at weight reduction, I would say it's two or three pounds.
    Fairly good deduction.
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