Starting Issue After Clutch Repair

[twoinchesmo]

Hey guys, I just replaced my burnt out clutch on my 07 tC, had the flywheel resurfaced, and put everything back together. Now, my car won't start. I checked the battery and of course, to make things just that much more easy on me, it was dead. I used another battery (charged) and the engine started to turn over but kinda felt like it couldn't quite get going. I added a little gas and it basically started but died out the second i stopped pushing in the gas pedal. I double checked the vacuum hoses and didn't see any loose ends. I also still have to bleed out the clutch line so i can get more pressure on the pedal, but besides that, I'm stuck..Any thoughts?

[connman429]

Is it possible that you smashed one of the fuel lines dropping/raising the tranny? What you describe is a fuel delivery issue. How long was the vehicle off the road? If it was a couple months, there is the possibility your fuel is bad and clogged the filter (which is attached to the pump; the access panel is underneath the back seat).

[twoinchesmo]

It's been off the road for about a month...I'll have to check the fuel filter then and also the lines.

[twoinchesmo]

Ok i checked the filter and the fuel lines and they are in good standing as far as i can tell. I even bought a new battery, however, now it won't even turn over. My guess is the starter got burned out from me trying to start it enough times. also i bled out the clutch line and now the pedal wants to stick to the floor. Any thoughts?

[connman429]

Don't replace your starter just yet; it's not starting because your clutch pedal interlock is not engaging. Start inspecting the components you can get to without removing the tranny again. Is your clutch slave cylinder securely mounted? Can you move the clutch fork by hand?

When you say the pedal is stuck to the floor, does that mean you cannot lift it up by hand, or is it just resting like it's disconnected?

[twoinchesmo]

the pedal sticks to the floor and i can pull it out by hand. about half way out, the pedal feels like its popping into place. it seems like the pedal wants to release off the floor but half way something seems like it's not lined up.

[connman429]

It sounds like your pedal assembly was damaged somehow. If you stick your head under the dash, then look at the pedal mounting bracket, you should see a white plastic switch at the bottom of the unpainted clutch pedal bracket. That is the start interlock switch that I mentioned before. If the switch is not in line with the clutch pedal arm, then something is definitely bent.

[gmedia18]

^ most likely the problem

[navylife59]

If the start switch on the pedal is fine, you could have something mechanical mashed up with the clutch install. That would put a large load on the powertrain causing the small starter to not be able to turn the rotating assembly. What exactly happens when you tried to start it; nothing, key click, starter overload (chugging), buzzing or does the engine even turn over? Does the starter feel warm afterwards? Put your trans in neutral and try (on a level surface) to push your car by hand. If you are unable to, then there is a mechanical problem with your install. If it does move smoothly, it is a bad starter or electrical.

Without your clutch slave being bled properly, the clutch will remain engaged with the flywheel, even though you have the pedal to the floor. The clutch is mechanically part of the input shaft of the transmission. Even with the gear in the neutral position, you are still turning the entire input shaft assembly within the transmission. All of the gears are meshed together with the synchromesh system transferring the torque to the selected gear on the output shaft. This maybe too much for the starter to handle.

Note: You can have the trans in neutral and have the front tires of the ground and with the engine revved just a tad, the wheels will begin to turn slowly. My ex-wife's '87 Mazda 323 would actually move the car forward a bit if you revved the engine high enough, even though, it was in neutral.

Electrically beyond the interlock switch, you have the key transponder for the immobilizer, a fuse and a relay in the engine compartment fuse/relay box. The main things to check are the following items. Start there first, then check the other fuses/system parts. Please note that a blown relay or fuse was caused by an overload. That issue must be determined and resolved first.

ENGINE ROOM NO. 2 RELAY BLOCK
- STATER RELAY (Marking: ST)
- ST FUSE

[bwally08tc]

check all your grounds and did you make sure your throwout berring was in place and dident get moved?

[navylife59]

Any update on this? Reading this thread again, it seems that you had two separate problems; one starting and the other keeping it running.