can stock block hold 14.5 psi pulley??

[carboncrazytc]

i was wondering if it is safe to run the 14.5 psi pulley on a stock block?? if so does any one have the link where i could purchase this part...

[carboncrazytc]

bump........

[navylife59]

Well, I thought I posted a reply on this???? Well, NST will custom make you the 14.5PSI pulley. They did mine. I have yet to have it running on my S/C since I have it out for a performance tune-up. It will spin mucho faster so a good oil cooler and synthetic oil are a MUST. You will need to run 550cc injectors and have e-manage/tune to get the best performance. Although the TRD might be able to keep your engine from blowing up (detonation), the ECM will pull back the timing and dump fuel to keep the AFR correct and keeping knock at bay. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT GOING ABOVE 10PSI W/O E-MANAGE / LARGER INJECTORS / PROFESSIONAL TUNE!!!!

The piston ring lands are the weak point the 2AZ-FE. Everyone will tell you that. These were either blown running a big turbo on too much boost, improper tuning (none at all), or shoot'n too much juice. Notice how I did not put the TRD S/C in the mix as a factor. That is because I have yet to hear of a TRD blowing up the engine because of too much boost or stress. Yes, there have been some blown oil seals on the S/C that ran the oil out of the block, but that is totally different.

Boost is boost, right? Well, yes and no. 8PSI in the intake manifold is 8PSI no matter where it comes from. The catch here is how it got there, aka how was it made. A turbo spools up and dumps full pressure into the intake all at once. This cause stress in the piston and cylinders due to the rapid increase in pressure. The S/C does not do this as it builds pressure up slowy compared to the turbo. Think of it like adding weight to a raw egg. If you slowy stack weight upon it, it can handle alot of pressure. Now take that same pressure and smack it all at once. The egg is going to break.

To sum it up, I feel confident enough that my block, with the proper supporting mods, will handle the 14.5 PSI with no problems.

[carboncrazytc]

what kinda horsepower do u think i would be looking at?

[carboncrazytc]

is there a bigger pulley than 14.5 ???

[navylife59]

No. There is supposedly a sizing issue as I was told that the puley can't go any smaller. I think that it can if they try a different design. The theoretical limit for our trim of S/C is 20 PSI.

[carboncrazytc]

wow 20 psi would be crazy.

[navylife59]

Now, imagine 50 PSI. I think that Kenny Tran's Q-Scion runs 38-50+PSI, but it is a huge Turbo.

[carboncrazytc]

that is unreal i would like to ride in it.

[navylife59]

This is some serious go power and why Kenny is the fastest (real) Scion tC on Earth. This is a full bodied except for the front clip.

[carboncrazytc]

wow..........

[navylife59]

With no supporting mods save 550cc injectors and custom 2.5" exhaust, my car is running smooth and powerful. So powerful that I can no longer do a burnout, boil the tires off in 2nd, or downshift to redline for an awesome pull; my OEM clutch is slipping! My "no supporting mods" would be that I have no intercooler (mechanical or chemical) and I removed the Greddy Ultimate piggyback. I am running just the ECM with the TRD S/C maps. Switching to a Goodyear Gatorback belt has assisted with the serpentine belt slip issue but not resolved it. Working on a solution.

Update***
Been about a year and a half and the car is still running; the motor not blown. I have changed nothing. The motor even withstood several days of 102+F degree day time temps with one day getting to over 105+F. The pistons did not melt and the block did not crack wide open. A scan tool displayed an IAT of about 2-3 degrees above the outside temp running down the highway at 70MPH. Even on the hottest day, the water temps never spiked and remained a constant 187F degrees. Idling at a traffic light on the 105+F day displayed a rapid IAT climb to 140F but the water temp remind solid at 187F. After engine shutdown, the water temp slowy rose to 193F. Take that all you "boost is boost" naysayers out there. No blown motor yet.

Note: No I am not babying it nor am I doing drag launches in that heat. I am not stupid. At those temps, a N/A car would be looking to run a richer mix and pull back the timing. Hey, maybe now you could get a performance gain by stepping up to the mid-grade or better? I have worked out a guesstimate power to temp curve. Was going to get a baseline dyno pull but the dyno bay at Jotech read 120F today.
50F and below = 270-280WHP
51F-70F = 265WHP
71F-87F = 250WHP
88F-95F = 240WHP
96F-99F = 230WHP
100F-107F = 210WHP or less (car begins to get anemic and lean bank codes start throwing if accelerating to heavily.

Again, these are best guesstimates based off my calibrated butt dyno and outside temp display with the latter possibly being 2-3F degrees off above 100F.

Also note that I have no intercooler, have larger injectors than the ECM is aware of (cooling fuel), 15PSI at redline, OEM radiator, Toyota 50/50 mix fluid with Redline Water Wetter, TRD 160F thermostat, 1.3 bar radiator cap, GReddy style (large bar plate) oil cooler, VIS vented CF hood, SRI with NACA ram air duct, and 93 Octane pump gas.