Do you guys know if new pulleys are sold for the 2008 TRD superchargers? Cuz i heard you cant change them.
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This is a discussion on 9.5 PSI Pulley within the Forced Induction forums, part of the Scion tC category; Do you guys know if new pulleys are sold for the 2008 TRD superchargers? Cuz i heard you cant change ...
Do you guys know if new pulleys are sold for the 2008 TRD superchargers? Cuz i heard you cant change them.
Boost!
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How much HP increase should be expected from the NST 9.5 PSI pulley? Also, upon completion of installation does a Toyota dealer reflash the ECU?
The 9.5 PSI pulley yeilds about 255BHP. Only after the installation of the S/C, if you are just upgrading the S/C and it has already been reflashed then no. I think it can handle up to 10PSI before you need other engine management, do not quote me on that though.
So if I understand you correctly, take my S/C to the dealer, have them do the initial install and reflash, then install the 9.5 psi pulley and it will work with the initial ECU reflash?
Correct. Install S/C, have car reflashed, then install pulley. If you are not worried about the dealer noticing the pulley then put the pulley on the S/C, install the S/C, then reflash.
Yes the S/C reflash is good up to ten psi. With the 9.5 pulley you will get around 235 HP to the wheels. Not alot but pretty quick.
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So, if upgraded the pulley, then got the Weapons R 4-2-1 header and Agency Power Ti/SS exhaust, would I be getting close or over 250 whp? Also, any other basic mods I could do to up my hp? Thanks.
Expect 230WHP on I/H/E, 9.5PSI S/C, pump gas, and stock ECM w/TRD map. The TRD map is good for 10PSI. After that, you have to run a piggyback, standalone, or hybrid management. If the Dealer is to do your S/C, then a tamper proof bolt will be installed on the 7PSI pulley. This bolt can be removed with a little work but the bolt will be damaged. The best thing to do is just run 7PSI for a few thousand miles and if there are no problems, don't worry about the bolt. Self install and you have no problems. People have been turning 9-10PSI with these chargers without problems for the past 3 years.
BTW...Hybrid meaning a standalone that handles all engine functions, yet continues to feed the stock ECM so that it's other integrated functions will still work. The original Nitto tC setup had this. I was really impressed with the integration. Not the Hydra standalone
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Navylife, are you still in the Navy? I'm in the Army, deployed to Afghanistan at the moment. Blows, but what can you do. I'll be ETS'ing in late 2009. I'll have been in for 8 years at that point and spent 4.5 years in the desert. Ha ha. Gotta love it. Anyway, I appreciate the information greatly. So if you were me, you wouldn't change out the safety bolt right away, you'd just ride it out on the stock 7 psi pulley to assure that I don't have a lemon for a S/C? Thanks a lot man.
Hanging on a med hold status right now I have 4 years Active and 4 years Reserves. The Sand Box that I regularly play in is like Club Med compared to where you are at. We sent a couple of Sailors IA over there and Iraq. I tried to do an IA Billet but they would not let me cause of my current job as C-130 Loadmaster. I am going back to the Reserves so that I can have the time to start my racing product development business. Hope your banking that buck to really trick out your tC when you get tired of being over there. When I am deployed on 30-45 day detachments, I jones real bad to be driving my tC around.
Yes for your last question. That is exactly what I did/recommend.
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Yeah, I am dying to be driving my TC. Since I've been gone, I've had a body kit installed, handles shaved with door poppers installed, lambo doors put on, new wheels and tires and soon to have the S/C installed. It is gonna be heaven for me when I get back and can drive it. Now, back on topic, how difficult will it be for me to remove the bolt that holds the S/C pulley once I am ready to switch it out? Will the bolt be ruined and what tools will be required to do so? Thanks a lot.
Bolt will be ruined. It is basically a torx head with a center davit like some of the better wheel locks. You can drill and use an easyout or weld a rod on the end to put vice grips on. This is here just for the sake of knowning you have altered the pulley size or not. You might be lucky and find someone that has a 2008 kit that they are going to self install that will sell you their bolt.
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Hey Navy, mind PM'ing me your AIM info or whatever messenger you use? Thanks a lot.
Easy....I don't msg except here. I haven't even logged onto MySpace in over 8 months. I dedicate the little extra time that I have in my life to ya'll right here. Yep, my Xbox360 is collecting dust. You can msg me here or navylife59@yahoo.com if you want. I have talked to a few members on the phone to help them on some urgent issues.
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I know this is 2 weeks old, but I ordered the nst 9.5 lbs pulley from NST. Is there ne way to remove this bolt with ease, and what would i have to worry about when i remove and replace this bolt? Is there some kind of specific torque?
Thanks!
Is there any way to not put the bolt on the pulley when the supercharger is installed?
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What year TRD S/C did you buy? The 2005 came a regular hexhead bolt with a tamper proof cap that snapped over the bolt onto a raised washer. I am not sure if the 2006 models had the same or the new theft proof bolt (preinstalled) on the 2007-up with newly designed single idler pulley.
2007-Up TRD SC Pulley Bolt.bmp
2007-up comes preinstalled. There are several techniques at getting it off, but all require a little skill and a deft hand.
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I imagine the tamper proof bolt was a measure to ensure that the S/C remained CARB legal.
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