I need Fuel Filter help...

[NVeed_TC]

Ok knowledgeable folks please help me. I need to change my fuel filter and have the slightest clue where its located. I have looked under pass side, on yhe firewall by steering shaft. where do I look?

Thank you btw if this a repost I am sorry I did a search but didnt find it..
thanks

-Tim

[CadenceScion]

If the fuel filter isn't underneath the car or inside the engine bay, its more than likely an internal fuel filter inside the tank itself.

[connman429]

The filter is actually part of the pump assembly. If you remove the rear seat cushion, you will see a small, round access panel. The pump can be removed through this panel; however, if you aren't a competent DIYer, I wouldn't recommend trying this one.

[navylife59]

We have you covered with this article from our Tech Section. http://www.club-tc.com/forums/genera...l-install.html. It is a fairly simple and straightforward task. Make sure to get a new c-clip retainer with the new filter. Best to replace the fuel cage assembly o-ring seal as well. Inspect it and if it is not cracked, flattened, or misshapen; then you can re-use. Be sure it and re-lube it, lightly, with some light-weight oil (3-N-1 or other machine oil). Engine oil will do in a pinch.

May I ask why you are changing it? The “Scheduled Maintenance Guide” supplement that came with your Owner's Manual has the scheduled maintenance interval. I don't have mine readily available but I do believe that it is a visual inspection at 100K miles and replace if needed.

[NVeed_TC]

Thank you guys for your posts I did manage to figure it out after I posted this, however I am not certain it is the fuel filter/pump.
What I mean by that is the car starts and will idle like normal but and a big BUT when you engage the gas or throttle the fuel pressure becomes faint, the car chokes, jerks and sometimes will stall out. I have only ever seen this 1x before on my old bmw. That situation was this filter and a quick easy fix. I was told I got bad gas but I feel thats not the case considering the car starts and idles will no issues.

Anyone have any clues to what is up and have to fix it? I am dying to get my car back on the road.

[CadenceScion]

You can try cleaning the throttle body out w/ a throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. Another possibility would be a bad fuel injector.

[NVeed_TC]

Theres a thought I didn't think about. I'll explore that ave thanks Cadence.

[CadenceScion]

Another idea I had would be a bad/plugged Catalytic Converter.

[NVeed_TC]

I went over to my father in law's to borrow his code reader. I found the ecu to be throwing a P0103 MAF sensor.
My father in law said it definitely would make the car run the way it has been. So needless to say I now know what I need to do.

Thank you guys for all your input I do appreciate the insight and ideas. I will keep you posted as to what the outcome is.

[CadenceScion]

Your more than welcome and hope everything works out for you.

[navylife59]

Yep, the MAF sensor is the main sensor for setting all the fuel trims. You can run w/o an O2 sensor (The ECM has extensive prebuilt tables) but w/o the MAF, there is no way for our ECM to know how much air it is getting. The O2 sensors can approximate fairly close but those are reactive sensors meaning they can only detect the amount of Oxygen in the exhaust gas stream after the exhaust cycle. That is too slow for changing engine conditions (load/throttle position).

Did you happen to do anything with or around the intake like change the air filter or install an aftermarket intake?

Here is what the Tech Pub states;

DTC P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter is a sensor that measures the amount of air flowing through the throttle valve. The ECM uses this information to determine the fuel injection time and to provide appropriate airfuel ratio. Inside the MAF meter, there is a heated platinum wire which is exposed to the flow of intake air. By applying a specific electrical current to the wire, the ECM heats it to a given temperature. The flow of incoming air cools both the wire and an internal thermistor, affecting their resistance. To maintain a constant current value, the ECM varies the voltage applied to these components in the MAF meter. The voltage level is proportional to the airflow through the sensor, and the ECM uses it to calculate the intake air volume.

The circuit is constructed so that the platinum hot wire and the temperature sensor provide a bridge circuit, and the power transistor is controlled so that the potentials of A and B remain equal to maintain the predetermined temperature.


HINT:
When any of these DTCs are set, the ECM enters fail-safe mode. During fail-safe mode, the ignition timing is calculated by the ECM, according to the engine RPM and throttle valve position. Fail-safe mode continues until a pass condition is detected.

If there is a defect in the MAF meter or an open or short circuit, the voltage level deviates from the normal operating range. The ECM interprets this deviation as a malfunction in the MAF meter and sets a DTC.
P0103 MAF meter voltage more than 4.9 V for 3 seconds (1 trip detection logic)
• Short in MAF meter circuit
• MAF meter
• ECM

Example:
When the sensor voltage output remains less than 0.2 V or more than 4.9 V for more than 3 seconds, the ECM sets a DTC. If the malfunction is not repaired successfully, a DTC is set 3 seconds after the engine is next started.

Further reference:
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/engine...safe-mode.html
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/engine...n-cai-sri.html
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/engine...ates-work.html

[BrandonL]

I had this same problem in my old Crown Victoria. I changed the MAF and it ran like new again. Good luck on the fix!