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Not this, it is a special high-temp coating that is supposed to be good up to 1000°F once cured. It is offered by Eastwood and is pricey at $20.99 for an 8oz bottle. It isn't as good as a ceramic coating, but far cheaper and easier for me to do.
OK, the shifter mod is done (minus testing). Due to the map cubby trim being real close, I may have to adjust the angle back about 5°. My forefinger gets pinched when I shift to 1st with my hand on the end. Shifting 1st with my hand gripping the TRD shift knob like a baseball bast solves the problem. Can alos be fixed by going with a ball shifter. The idea came to me over a year ago. Remembering the old Hurst side shifters on old muscle cars, I thought that a smiliar geometry might help with shifting ergonomics. It has been low on my priority list. With my upcoming tranny buildout, it needed to get done. I will post this as a how-to article once it is tested OK. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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As advertised, here are updated pics of my highly modified TRD S/C compressor housing. Besides the sweet Starlight Blue powder coat w/ 95% gloss topcoat, you will see the manifold boss drilled to be taped for 1/8" NPT fitting for a PLX Devices Air Temp sensor, the TRD air intake "horn" mounting flange is ground smooth, and rough cast polish that includes a clear toughcoat. The toughcoat give the overlying rough cast surface a nearly smooth and impermeable surface to further reduce air to surface friction. The housing's impeller mate surface was bead blasted slighty and lightly coated to allow the impeller to "reseat" for a better seal. I am by no means a Forced Induction expert. Just trying to squeek a little better adiabatic efficiency out of this Vortech unit. Call me crazy, just trying to think out of the box. Also spoke with a "soon to be authorized" TRD S/C repair facility. They state that the TRD supplied horseshoe brackets are the cause of all the TRD woes; from the broken mounting bracket, the blown end seal, and the worn shaft end bearings, to the complete failure of the torque shaft. I was told that the torque shaft is made out of mild steel and will sheer the keyway off if I try to spin to 14.5PSI. He maybe right or wrong as I am not the only one that has tried this.
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How Fast Was I Going? Last edited by navylife59 : Thu., Jan 24, 2008 at 11:58 PM. |
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have you considered painting the stock wheels black? I like the stock tC wheels, but black on that blue would be siq. its not that hard, just some light sanding to ruff up the surface, then a few coats of that dupli color wheel coating and some clear coat. it can be done in just a couple hours, and comes out looking great!
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2004 Saturn Ion Redline: stg 2 w/ 3" pully - 15psi k&n cai diamond forged 10:1 pistons arp headstuds zzp hdr + dp custom 3" cb SMM's B&G springs water/meth inj tuned ... much more ... |
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I have the stock mounts with a set of Energy Suspension polyurethane inserts on order. Since I have a complete powertrain assembly, I am going to engineer a set made out of aluminum like Hasport has for KA swaps. If all goes well, I will produce them. The tC has 4 engine mounts and is why it is a sturdy platform for torque. I will see how the Energy bits do first.
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