So I did the Energy Suspension master kit polyeurethane replacement. This quite the DIY project. If anybody is feeling ambitious enough to do this, I recommend you plan on having at least a week of down time. Installing the new bushings is fairly easy, but removing the OEM will tax your patience. None of the removal instructions worked and I had to devise my own methods and did a lot of consulting with a friend who has been turning wrenches longer than I have been alive.

I recommend having the following equipment available before you loosen the first bolt:

Full set of jackstands
propane hand torch and a spare bottle
rotary tool (I used a Dremel) and a burr bit
razor knife and an economy pack of spare blades
6" gear puller
hydraulic press

This is a breakdown of how I did it:

Front lower arm:

The instructions said to heat the arm in order to loosen the glue-like properties of the OEM bushings. Baking at 400 degrees for an hour did nothing.

The horizontal bushing can be pressed out easily using a gear puller. The vertical bushing is another story. I used a torch to burn off the rubber as deep as I could. I then used the press to push out the center sleeve (be careful doing this, as you will reuse this sleeve). I then alternately used the torch to burn off the remaining rubber and razor blades to cut it away. Toyota uses a harder grade of rubber and harder rubber does not like to burn self-sustained. This means I had to hold the torch to the rubber almost the entire time. Once I got all but the most stubborn bits of rubber burned out, I used a wire-brush for final cleaning and a nylon pad for smoothing. Total removal of the OEM bushings took around 4 hours.

Rear suspension arm bracket:


The method called out (hydraulic press) works, but disregard the dimensions the instruction sheet calls out for the pipe diameters. Use common sense instead. Your base needs to clear the flange of the sleeve you are trying to remove. The press piece should be slightly smaller than the housing. Do not try to press on the inner sleeve. You will simply remove the rubber and you have to get the metal outer sleeve out as well! Once I found the correct size press adapters (I apologize for not measuring and listing dimensions), this was completed in minutes.

Rear subframe:

This was the most time-consuming. Do not waste your time trying to use a puller and chisel. I lost about three hours of my life trying this method and accomplished nothing more than getting frustrated. What did work for me was first using the hydraulic press to remove the inner sleeves (the gauge read 4 tons of pressure right before the rubber tore away, so make sure it's a big press). I then went to the alternating torch and razor blade method of removing the rest of the rubber. Once I hit metal, I used the rotary tool to carefully grind two lines about an inch apart in the cup sleeve (be extremely careful doing this, as you don't want to go too deep and cut into your subframe!). Once I had the these grooves to where the sleeve was paper thin, I used a hammer and cold punch to peel the 1-inch strip out. The rest of the sleeve just slipped free. If I had to do this again, it would probably take around 3 hours to remove all 4 bushings.

As I said at the top, installation was very easy. Putting the entire rear end back together took about half a day. I recommend doing this upgrade concurrent with ohter suspension work, as it will require an alignment check.