Your in reverse. Anything above 14.7 (greater number) is Lean. There are several factors that drive what you are reading. 1. What gauge are you taking readings from; a stand-alone gauge, piggyback off the OEM, or CAN scanner of the OEM sensor? 2. Are you taking readings at the OEM header collector where the OEM A/F Bank1/Sensor1 is located (most accurate/reads all 4 cyl) or are you taking readings at or near the OEM Bank1/Sensor2. Note: The further away in the exhaust system the sensor is from the cylinder, the leaner it will read. Air can get sucked up the tailpipe or from a leaking gasket via a method called eduction. This will either cause a leaner reading or be detected as free air. I run a PLX Devices wideband controller that replaces the OEM O2 Bank1/Sensor2 in the s-pipe. It reads free air whenever I come off partial/WOT back to idle; coasting. It also averages around a 15.3 reading. 3. The volumetric efficiency of the engine. Toyota engines are designed for fuel efficiency with good torque. An efficient combustion sequence requires less fuel per metered amount of fuel. This will cause a Leaner reading, not a leaner condition leading towards knock. 14.7 Stoimetric is just an ideal reading in a hypothetical engine. As long as you are within a point of that, your fine. The Toyota ECM will protect you. If all else fails, go to the dealer.
4. Have you done any engine/exhaust mods lately? This may not be understood by you ECM so just do the ECM reset.
5. Have you been reading richer numbers on average before? I am not sure if water or a bad tank of gas could cause a lean out. Something to think about.
Also, did you utilize any exhaust thread paste? Any air that can get sucked in will cause the above problems. Make sure everything is tight and sealed.