Changing the Power Steering Fluid?

[saeedm]

I was wondering if its about the right time to change the power steering fluid on an 06 tc with like 26000 miles? dealership said its really dark and would be good to get it changed but they want 120 dollars. cant find anyone that has explained how to do it step by step. could anyone help me out?

[navylife59]

This sure is well overdue for an answer, but will be answered nonetheless. The tC has a very ineffective power steering fluid cooler. It is just a hardline that dips down along the frame rail in the engine bay. With the steering pump cranking out over 1250 PSI, the hydraulic fluid overheats and burns. I would say that in warmer climates the fluid burns before 5K.

Fluid:
ATF "DEXRON" II or III
HINT:
When hot, check that the fluid level is within the
HOT range on the oil reservoir. If the fluid is cold,
check that it is within the COLD range.
Standard fluid temperature:
75 to 80°C (167 to 176°F)

There is no drain port or detailed draining procedure in the manual. Suggest draining at the pump by disconnecting the suction hose. This will drain the reservoir. To drain the rack and pinion you will need to turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock several times. Do NOT do this with the motor running. To so would damage the pump.
There is a kit coming out soon that will alleviate this issue.

[saeedm]

So I just need to disconnect the hose and drain all the fluid and keep the hose off while turning the steering wheel? I see that its bad to get air in the system, wont this put air into the system?

[navylife59]

All true. You want to change out as much of the fluid as possible, but you will never get all of it. Particular contaminants in hydraulic fluid tend to settle in low points (the rack and pinion) and points of slow flow. Ever drain your oil and notice that after the draing oil flow slows down to a trickle, the oil becomes thicker with more sludge? This is why you want to run your power steering thru the paces (lock to lock) with the motor running before you drain (not while you drain). This puts the particulate more into suspension in the fluid allowing more of it to be removed.

As for entering air into the system, yes you will. Once you begin refilling, fill to about 3/4 the amount then slowly move the wheel from lock to lock 10 times. Now top-off to the "Cold" fill line. Slowly move the wheel again from lock to lock for 5-10 more times. You should feel a difference while you are doing this as you are filling the rack and purging the air. Check the fluid level "Cold" one more time. Now start the engine and slowly run the wheel lock to lock till it feels firm. Be sure to kep checking your fluid level while you do this. 5-10 turns from lock to lock should suffice. The pwr steering pump has a pressure switch, so if have too much air trapped in the system, you might throw a MIL (CEL). Once the engine is turning the pump, any air still in the system will become entrapped in the fluid. This will travel up to the reservoir which is not pressurized (Open). This may cause the fluid to "burb" and spill fluid out of the opening so keep the cap on as it is vented. Just put a shop rag over it. Hydraulic fluid is very bad for paint.