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Performance Engine, Transmission, Naturally Aspirated, Forced Induction, etc.

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  #81 (permalink)  
Old Fri., Sep 07, 2007
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dont you want lower compression to run more boost like 8:1 or so ??
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old Fri., Sep 07, 2007
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yeah. if your running high compression then you run a bigger chance of blowing your engine. thats one of those deals where you have to look out there at the cars that are running stock turbos. most of the four cyllinders are no more than 2.0 liter engines. so they run lower compression.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old Fri., Sep 07, 2007
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Lowering the compression ratio will let you boost more since you have less chance of pre-ignition, but you sacrifice HP\TQ on the lower end (more noticeable turbo lag). So lowering it a lot will give you great room for boost, but you would be crawling off the line. On the opposite side, the people who want to go N\A would increase their compression ratio, sometimes to 11 or 12 to 1.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old Sat., Sep 08, 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrice View Post
yeah. if your running high compression then you run a bigger chance of blowing your engine. thats one of those deals where you have to look out there at the cars that are running stock turbos. most of the four cyllinders are no more than 2.0 liter engines. so they run lower compression.
Just to clear the air, compression has nothing to do with engine size.

Yes, you can bump up your compression on a blown app, just not as much as N/A. You can do this by colder plugs, more fuel, meth injection, or the better method C16+ race gas.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old Sat., Sep 08, 2007
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too confusing for me lol.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old Sat., Sep 08, 2007
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The compression ratio is just a comparison of the volume of fuel-air mixture in your cylinder when it is at BDC to when it is at TDC. A forced induction system technically raises your compression ratio, but since the compressing of the air happens outside of the cylinder it isn't calculated in the equation.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old Sat., Nov 10, 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex8181 View Post
Even if you go NA, by the time you go beyond I/H/E, you'll need the benefits of some type of engine management to fully tune and get the most out of those mods.

I would consider what your goals are. If you're looking for ultimate horesepower, I would save your money and get forced induction. If you're looking for modest power and long-term reliability than do I/H/E.
What is an IHE?? Who makes them? how do they work?
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old Sat., Nov 10, 2007
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It is written I/H/E for a reason. It stands for Intake/Headers/Exhaust.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old Mon., Dec 17, 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupachargedSupawhite View Post
Um no I/H/E for the tC will ever make 35-45hp.

Intake will cost you about $250 new
Header will cost you about $300 new
S-pipe will cost you about $150 new
Cat-back stainless steel exhaust will cost you about $600 new

That equates to about $1300 new WITHOUT installation. From all of these mods, you will get maybe 20whp. = $65 per 1whp

The TRD supercharger gives the tC about 55whp for $3000 shipped WITHOUT installation. = $55 per 1whp
who pays retail....and who can turn a ****ing wrench its not rocket science its bolts!!
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old Mon., Dec 17, 2007
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finally after three weeks i got my lightweight altenator pulley put on it took a few hours and a couple guys but we got it taken care of and i have to say wow. that thing actually works. hell yeah!
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  #91 (permalink)  
Old Tue., Dec 18, 2007
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Did you go w/ the overdriven pulley for the Alt?
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old Tue., Dec 18, 2007
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alt. cheapest route for me at the time.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old Wed., Dec 19, 2007
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I wanted to know if that alt pulley was overdriven.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old Fri., Dec 21, 2007
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Would it be better if I buy the agency power pulley as my first engine upgrade. I don't really work on my engine of my cars first except for my celica, with that car I bought all trd parts all at once. With my tc its auto and I just put subs, a amp, and a in dash dvd nav deck, and just put a body kit on it. I want the car to go a little faster. Would this be a good choice to do?
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old Fri., Dec 21, 2007
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no navy it's actually the same size but it's actually lighter. i think the stock one is steel but the new one is aluminum.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old Tue., Dec 25, 2007
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yea i was told it was aluminum also .. they wanted to lighten it up a bit
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old Tue., Dec 25, 2007
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definatley makes a difference.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old Wed., Dec 26, 2007
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of course .. less wait equals better acceleration
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old Fri., Jan 11, 2008
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okay so ive read every page of this thread... still clueless about some of the more advanced discussions but here it goes...

it seems the best thing overall for the most hp is forced induction (F/I). the safest and most reliable form of f/i appears to be supercharging (S/C). the TRD (dont need to spell that one out!) s/c is available for under 2K at trdsparks.com. wasnt it 3K before? (i realize that's w/o installation but how much would scion charge for installation? what's reasonable? might it vary btwn scino dealers? im slighlty gullable so sometimes i'll just go with whatever i hear.)

next, does adding a s/c mean a different intake? it was mentioned briefly in this thread but it isnt clear to me. i searched for the mmw supercharger intake to no avail. i found a weapon r supercharged intake but im not sure if thats the same thing as an intake for a s/c. my reason for asking this is that i want to get an injen cai but a s/c eventually and i dont wanna buy two intakes.

finally, all these pulleys and cranks are a little confusing and i cant find a place that explains them clearly. is there a benefit to upgrading one or the other? or lighten them all up? the part where upgrading the tranny to recover lost power en route to the wheels does make sense to me (so i dont look like a complete idiot - harsh - maybe a guy who doesnt know much about cars and is learning a lot from this forum - wordy). lol

my performance plans are pretty modest compared to some setups ive read on here.

thanks
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old Sat., Jan 12, 2008
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Lightweight pullies don't make power, they recover wasted energy. Think of it this way; a car, with only the driver, has a 0-60MPH time of 5 seconds. Now that same car loaded up with 5 more people has a 0-60MPH time of 6.2 seconds. Remove those 5 people and the car again does it in 5 seconds. The reason is that the motor had more of a load in the form of weight. The engine HP output did not change so it is a matter of work. Anything attachd to the motor (IE pullies, flywheels, rotating assembly, accessories) adds work to the motor. Lessen the weight, you lessen the load, hence more power to the wheels.

S/C install at the dealerships will be approxiamately the same; labor + parts. I paid $300 for my install (it was the first for the dealership and took them 6 days). I have