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I'm interested in getting an intake for my tc but I'm not sure which one to get. I used to have a dakota with a custom intake made for it but it messed up a couple of things when I went to smog it. Any suggestions on what would be the best performance wise and the safest on the vehicle? Also what is the major difference between a CAI and a Short Ram intake?
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I got your answers here:
Injen Technologies Cold Air Intake System for the 2004-2006 Scion TC. This will not fit the 07 tC the Mass air meter has been changed. This intake featuring a two- piece design, which allows for a short-ram conversion if needed. We found that the Scion tC gains the best power by using the full cold air intake kit. KEY FEATURES: - Two-Piece design for ease of installation - Tri- Step Process - Able to convert to short ram - Dyno Tuned Flange - Gains of up to 12hp/9 ft-lbs of torque The Injen intake we tested on our Scion tC test car had the best over all horse power of all the intakes avalible for the Scion tC. Check out the thread on Scion life here showing all of the dyno graphs. http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=92108 The Injen Scion tC intake beat out the other 3 tested by a total of 5whp which is about 6 or 7 total horsepower. A Short Ram Intake which is often referred to as a warm air intake, positions the filter still inside the engine bay, but at a point as far away as room allows.. Although this Intake setup still takes in hot air, a short ram intake has less restrictions and uses a higher flowing filter allowing air to flow much more freely into your engine. The result? Depending on what you buy, about a 4-8 peak hp gain depending on car and other modifications. It may not sound like much but take into account that you will be gaining power from 2000 rpm until redline, meaning your car will be quicker everywhere in the powerband. A cold air intake (aka CAI) typically has a longer pipe and its filter is positioned low in the engine bay, close to the ground where it can suck in the rushing air that has not been heated by underhood operating temps. Cold air intakes provide significantly larger gains then a short ram, on some applications gains of up to 15 peak hp have been recorded although this wont be the case for every car out there. |
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its really easy actuall for installing both, maybe alittle harder for CAI.
Written By: Alex8181 Difficulty (1-5): 3 Time Frame: 1 Hour One of the first and most popular upgrades for the TC is adding an intake. This is an installation guide for a short ram intake (in this case the Weapon R Secret Weapon). Step 1: Before starting 99% of any engine modification, you want to disconnect the negative. This is especially important for the ECU to adjust to the new intake. Step 2: Remove the screws holding on the MAF sensor and the loosen the clamp holding the airbox to the intake tube. Remove the MAF sensor from the intake. Step 3: Disconnect the clips holding the airbox lid to the airbox. Remove the lid and air filter. Step 4: Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the bottom of the airbox to the car frame and remove the airbox. Step 5: It’s time to remove the intake tubing that goes into the fender. There are 2 points where a plastic screw is holding it down, one on each side of the tubing. The plastic end holding down the intake tubing is open-ended, a quick pull of the intake tubing will take it out. Step 6: The second one is a little hidden but a quick pull will get it out. Step 7: Next remove the valve cover to get access to the intake vacuum line. Step 8: Now unclip the vacuum line at the cylinder head. Retain the metal clip because you will need to use it again. Step 9: Remove the other side of the vacuum line and also remember to keep this clip. Step 10: Now unclip the set of rubber lines connected to the intake. Step 11: Use a vise grip to compress the clip holding the intake tubing to the throttle body. Remove the tubing from the engine bay. Step 12: Connect the coupler between the throttle body and intake tube. Step 13: Now connect the filter to the other end of the intake tubing with the other coupler. On the first metal clip remember to include the small metal bar that will anchor the intake in the engine bay. Step 14: Here is that metal anchor. Screw it into the engine bay in the hole that was previously used to bolt the airbox too. Step 15: Connect the supplied vacuum line with the stock metal clip to intake. Step 16: Do the same for cylinder head. Step 17: Attach the MAF sensor to the intake. Step 18: Now re-attach the negative to the battery. Make sure all the screws and bolts are tight. Now start the car and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Than take the car out and let rip! Refer to Articles where Alex 8181 shows you exactly what to do with pictures and instructions. |
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bwiedner... a bypass valve is a mechanism that basically prevents water from entering your engine (hydrolocking). therefore, hydrolocking is when water enters your engine. BUT...from what I know, if you have a bypass valve, unless you have CRAZY airflow (which most don't) your wasting money on the intake... so if you live in an area like ME, and theres always water everywhere, and its a possibility for it to get sucked up in your intake...DONT waste your money...dry climates only if you ask me...its not worth the risk!
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so how do u get to pass d smog test.?
i live in vegas, do u think the cai wont be a problem here? is it fine to upgrade the intake and exhaust right now and do the headers after 6 months just to try if im contented with the upgrade or still need the headers? i'm not planning to race the car. i just want it to be faster than stock and a little bit deeper sound on the exhaust. thanks |
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go to killertc.com, they have an injen CAI for the 07 tC, and they have the cheapest prices you'll find on performance parts for the tC allbeit not a HUGE selection, but good for what you need. they arn't that hard to install, just have to make sure you take the front bumper off, i tried to get around it but you can't route the second peice of the pipe up through the wheel well without doing it unfortuneatly. it also can be converted to a short-ram. so there ya go
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Hydro-lock on the tC is only going to occur if you drive thru 2ft+ deep puddles. Look at where the air filter is and you can see that it is encapsulated by the front fascia, radiator air diverter, fender, and mud guard. Plowing thru a puddle is not going to ingest water. Plowing into a 2ft+ deep trough of water will. There is always a water sock which is cheaper and easier alternative to the bypass valve.
FYI. The AEM bypass valve is not really a valve. It is just a plastic ring with holes around the circumference covered in a porous foam filter. It uses the "path of least resistence" principle.
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