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Everything is relative.
What's considered "breaking" the bank? Here's what I'd recommend: 1. Stainless Steel Brake Lines (If you can get lines that also coat and reinforce with Kevlar, then I'd recommend those, but that's assume they're available for the tC.) 2. Performance viscosity brake fluid. 3. Performance Brake Pads. I"m partial to Axxis, ENDLESS, and Hawk. 4. If you haven't broken the bank yet, performance rotors. Slotted, dimpled or cross drilled. Becareful with Cross Drilled rotors. This is where production reputation is very important. Some companies are inconsistent with their rotors, and cause too much stress on the rotor when drilling the holes. I'd suggest Slots or Dimples that were forged into the rotor, not drilled, or ground. People are getting crazy out there. But steps 1-4 is a great way to see a very noticable change in braking power. Stainless lines and performance fluid is IMO, some of the best bang for the buck modifications out there. |
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I use to have a set of green stuff on my RSX. They were uber sensitive to me. I had to get use to them at first, also I did notice ALOT less break dust on the rims too.
What soulbane reccomended is a great way to upgrade your brakes. The brake lines, yeah they are good, but for every day driving...it isnt needed. Same with the high viscosity brake fluid. I think you will be pleased with just changing your brake pads. Finally, the rotors. They are really ment for auto crossing, but most people that I know that have them on just use them for looks anyways. I do admit they look damn good. Like Soulbane said, STAY AWAY from drilled, unless you know that the company makes a good rotor. |
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I'm a corner junkie, and I live in Cali where recently its raining, dry as hell, foggy, cloudy, moist and freezing all in the same month.
I don't like feeling the standard rubber brake lines flexing so much under different environmental conditions. Especially when it's hot, which California is. |
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Be careful not to utilize DOT 5 Silicon brake fluid as it is not compatible with our advanced EBFD/Skid Control setup. We are spec'd for DOT 3.
You can read about why at this website that I just searched. D.O.T. 5 Brake Fluid This is a good, often not talked about topic. It usually ends and starts with BBK. IMO they are a waste of money and weight for a drag racer and not much good on single-pass type races. Brake Pads are definitely what to change for one the street. I am asking the same questions; what composition and from which company.
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How Fast Was I Going? Last edited by navylife59; Sun., Feb 24, 2008 at 09:21 PM. |
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SS brake lines are not universal fit correct?
I was curious to see if they made em for the tC yet. I put slotted rotors, axxis ceramic performance pads, stainless lines, and Motul Dot 3 fluid, and I have to tell you, the braking power as a result (without caliper or bracket modification/replacement) was absolutely tremendous. I am looking forward to similar results with the tC. |
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There is not a "fit kit" put there for the tC yet. We have coated steel lines that so far have done well done here in New Orleans. You can buy the correct size SS hardline tubing and make your own. The problem being finding the metric size fittings.
How was the dust buildup on your wheels running those ceramic compound Axxis pads?
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How Fast Was I Going? |
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Quote:
so about brake pads... i got about 40K on my tC. while i dont auto-x, the car has seen a lot of action since july 06. what should i be feeling for to tell me its time to upgrade? can i tell by looking at them up close with the wheel off? or should i take it to a pro?
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Sometimes, you gotta spend money to make money. But if you dont have money to spend, how can you make it? |
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Quote:
But I didn't mind cleaning my rims every week for the performance so it was ok. I live in California, so sleeper is everything to me. Brake dust just makes me look like another "car" I guess you could say. My favorite and greatest performing pads were Hawk blues and Endless SS. Except they squeal like its not even funny, and they're not very friendly to the wallet. Axxis was a great economic compromise, so that's what I used when I was low on funds. |
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My experience is, no one brake component will drastically alter the performance of your brakes.
The proper combination works best, and there are noticable nuances with particular pads and various set ups. For example, my exerience has been ceramic compound performance pads yield less reults on rotors that lack any type of gas/debris venting. The TRD pads work well on stock rotors, granted they were designed to work in that manner. The Hawks, Axxis or Endless alone didn't work well in conjunction with regular rotors, however I took all three pads to two different set ups. I used the hawks and axxis on STOPTECH slotted rotors, and used Axxis and Endless on Rotorwork's cross drilled/slotted. ( This was all on my WRX by the way). The Axxis and Hawk pads worked well with the slotted rotors, extremely minimal warpage indicates performance level heat reduction, and the increased surface area with the slots only helped stopping power. This was a great set up. However, with the Endless and Axxis, the Slotted/Drilled rotors provided obvious amounts more gas/debris ventilation. The buildup on my rims was proof enough. With the reduced surface area, the Axxis pads didn't perform as well, however, the Endless pads, with their monster grip compensated extremely well. This set up was included with DOT3 Motul brake fluid and BF Stainless Steel brakelines to reduce line-flex in performance/high temperature situations. The Endless pads IMO, do live up to their name (and associated higher price) there's nothing more to say than the fact that they're just great pads. My Scooby was able to perform with 4 pot Brembo BBK's with the stock 2 pot OEM calipers with fluid, brake line, rotor and pad upgrades. The four of which, combined is still significantly cheaper than the BBK itself. Even then, Subaru based tuners started pumping out relocation brackets for the rear brakes to reduce front-end diving associated with hard braking, and the gains with a modified caliper bracket in the rear was substantial. More linear and stable braking at higher speeds. I'm a big fan of intelligent budget modifying, and I'd have to say, I'm hopeful such things will come out for the tC. My plan of attack is when my OEM brakes are dead at 40k, It'll be new pads, rotors, stainless (and hopefully kevlar laced) brake lines, and fluid. In conjunction with the lower center of gravity provided by Hotchkis springs, the increased chassis and drivetrain stability provided with sways and struts, I'm expecting significant increases in performance. All without breaking the bank. (Too badly anyways lol) |
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I was wondering if any one out there sells front and rear big brake kits for the tc i have seen front kits only and think that front big brake kits look funny if your not gunna have the back ones big too. well any susgestions?
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i thought the big brakes on the rear of a FF car are just for show
i defintely would paint my rear calipers the same as the BBK to make it consistent and get the rear rotors from the same company as the BBK...
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Sometimes, you gotta spend money to make money. But if you dont have money to spend, how can you make it? |
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yea i know whatcha mean... but unless ur pushin 400hp+ you really dont need 14 inch calipers front and rear, right? you talk about "breaking the bank" as Jbruin7 said at the onset of this thread...
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Sometimes, you gotta spend money to make money. But if you dont have money to spend, how can you make it? |