2005 Scion Tc Brakes and Rotors

The products that you are looking at ordering are high quality and will serve you well. I have the Redstuff and they do give a good bite. I have cross-drilled/slotted rotors as well. I have never had them under track conditions but I love to roar up to a red light and come to a hard stop without screeching the tires or going into ABS actuation. I have found that when my car sits along time and there is rust build up on the rotors from rain, I have to do a couple of hard stops to get back the maximum braking action. The rust build up acts like when you get your brakes wet, basically hydro-planning the pads. No big deal, just something for all to consider that gets rotor rust buildup from not using your car.

I would suggest that you buy quality SS braided brake lines from either Goodrich or Stop-Tech, as well as, purging/filling the brake system with a quality synthetic brake fluid.

NOTE: When it comes to brake fluids, make sure that it states safe for use with ABS. Not all fluids are compatible with the seals in the ABS servo.

I also have Cross-Drilled and Dimpled Rotors (EBC) w/ EBC GreenStuff Pads. I haven't had any issues w/ mine and the stopping power is so much better than OEM. I also second what NavyLife said about the Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines, I bought the GoodRidge SS Lines but haven't installed them. If my memory severs me correctly, rotors will come as set front and rear.

You can pick up the GoodRidge Brake lines from these sites:

Google

Another advantage to SS lines is they won't rust out like OEM lines. The only part of our OEM brake lines that aren't steel are the ones behind the front brakes, they are rubber.

If it was me I would get a slotted rotor, but a drilled and slotted rotor or dimpled rotors are fine also. Buy name brand rotors (Centric Rotors), and stay away from cheap knock-off/no-name rotors on Ebay.

I have the EBC Slotted and Dimpled Rotors and they work great, haven't had any issues w/ them. For a street vehicle under 200HP, the EBC GreenStuff Brake Pads are recommended, which I also have. If your vehicle exceeds 200+ HP, you'll want the EBC Red Stuff. Other good brake pads to buy are as follows: HAWK, Wagner Thermo-Quiet, Raybestos, or Durlast-Gold Series (Auto-Zone).

I would also suggest a ceramic brake pad, which are quieter and less dusty compared to a semi-metallic brake pad.

My EBC Rotors came w/ a coating to help prevent rust and corrosion. Its not a 100% guarantee but helps.

Drilled and Slotted Rotors are fine as they are name brand, not Ebay or Knock-Off's. IMO they perform better than OEM blanks. As long as you do your home prior to buying, you'll be fine. I would suggest going with either StopTech, EBC, Brembo, or PowerSlot. Drilled and Slotted Rotors will have more bite, stay cooler and help to expel away the brake dust and heat generated.

If you do get new struts, I would suggest getting Tokico HP Series. As far as the hood pins go, they do recommend them, but from others that I have seen with after market hoods (fiberglass and carbon fiber), you don't need them and I personally don't like hood pins on a tuner, a muscle car yes. If your looking at hoods, checkout Kaminari's hoods and ScionPro.com.

The OEM struts are good for drops up to about 2.00". Beyond that, you will need to look at height adjustable struts, a feature on most coilovers. I have found the Hotchkis drop springs to give the best overall lowering, clearance, handling, ride comfort, quality, and price.

Most CF/Fiberglass hood manufactures put the hood pin disclaimer to protect their ass-sets. If the hood is built properly and has a metal catch/plate, it does not need hood pins. Hood pins are required by most sanctioning bodies because the stresses put onto the chassis can flex a CF, fiberglass, aluminum, composite, or even an OEM hood enough to release the catch. All OEM hood latches have a safety catch (the part that you have to push down to open after you pull the hood release handle) designed to prevent an accidentally pulled release or latch failure from materializing into a fully opened hood. I have experienced this twice on my second hotrod. Once while going down the highway and the second just after going on a green light when a strong gust caught it. I bought the car with about 80% of frontal crash repair finished. The latch mechanism would never adjust perfect so I ended up installing hood pins.

If you feel that must install hood pins, you might consider 2 alternatives. The best solution is to install a set of Aero Catches AeroCatch® - new design of bonnet pin, available in locking or non-locking versions – see how it works.......... The second would be to install safety lanyards. These are 1/8" or smaller steel cables that are attached to the upper radiator support frame and connected, inconspicuously on the underside of the hood. Nothing showing on the outside. I have been driving with an VIS Evo Style CF hood for 3 years or more. Only the OEM hood latch is used with no issue. I do put the car thru some paces in the tight turns so much so that I broke one of my upgraded rear swaybar endlinks.