Boost project handled.

Looking awesome. Sweet valve cover. Is that a paint or power coat? Is your TRD S/C still set at the TRD specs or have you upgraded any components? Was this an off-the-shelf full kit or did you buy it used? What are your plans for a piggyback controller. With our smart ECM, WOT is about all a piggyback can tune. It is critical that you have the ECM flashed with the TRD S/C maps, even if, you are running a piggyback. Here is a lot of info on my current setup.

http://www.club-tc.com/forums/forced-induction/1792-turbo-supercharger-13.html#post39467

Caution: Be very careful with your hood propped like that, especially, with a CF/fiberglass hood. They tend to flex a tad more than your OEM hood. Couple that with the change in geometry in relation to the OEM hood latch and you might find yourself without a hood hitting a bump in a hard turn or a huge lateral gust of wind.

You just take the vacuum line coming from the TB and route that to your vacuum block as the source. Everything else will just tie in to there. Don't expect too much out of your Ultimate. I originally made 228.4WHP/196TQ on a 9lbs pulley but lost power to 217WHP when I up the boost to 15PSI and the larger injectors. With just the ECM w/ TRD maps I made a balanced 214WHP/214TQ. The Ultimate can only adjust fuel trims at WOT. It had no effect on ignition timing which is more critical for making more power and engine longevity. My car also ran rather eradict with the GReddy but near OEM without it. It would be cheaper and better to get a UniChip piggyback. The Toyota ECM is very smart and will relearn your engine parameters and adjust accordingly after on 20 miles once you do a full battery reset. http://www.club-tc.com/forums/engine/8240-reset-ics-learned-tables-ecm.html

Looks awesome. You should try a 12lbs pulley sometime. Word of advice, you have to keep that torque tube dry as it will start to rust. As soon as I put on my vented hood, it started to rust even though I was keeping it polished. I have to pull my S/C (older style) to get to my alternator to fix a bad diode. While it is out, I am going to give it a refresh. If you don't have an oil cooler, you should get one. Also, the orifice tube has to be inspected and cleaned once a year on synthetic oil, bi-annual for dyno oil if you put over 10K miles a year on your ride. You can remove the hex keyed brass plug in the front part of the gearbox section, while the car is running, to see if oil is flowing over the gears. Don't worry about oil pouring out. Oil pressure at idle on a warm engine is around 7PSI or slightly higher. The orifice tube drops down the volume of fluid to the gearbox. Just check to see that the gears are sufficiently "wet" with oil and that there is atleast tiny droplets of oil that fling out of the opening. FYI. The orifice tube is located on the direct opposite side of the gearbox brass plug and has the small, braided oil line connected to it.

The original oil cooler setup came from an Ebay many years ago. I was after the large, 13 row bar and plate cooler. I soon sourced parts from JEGS and Summit Racing to replace all the other parts. I am an old school Hot Rodder so I went with the SS hoses and AN fittings. The black nylon hoses use similar AN fittings but cost less, easier to install, easier to make a line, and alot less weight.
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/member-rides/308-project-tc-9.html

Here you can see both my oil cooler and power steering cooler. The OEM PWR STR cooler is severely in adequate.
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/attachments/member-rides/1179d1209435818-project-tc-blue-hawaii.jpg

This photo shows my sandwich adapter but with the old oil press sending unit for my PLX Devices gauges that I could never get to work right. Not seen is the oil temp sending unit. Again, a non functioning PLX gauge.
http://www.club-tc.com/forums/attac...-project-tc-oil-bypass-plate-press-sender.jpg

There are different variants on cooler design. The more common to see is what is called multi-pass. Basically it is one continuous tube wrapped back and forth insid of rows of find.. This design will bring about the greatest Delta Temp difference but does so at a slow rate. A bar plate design is more efficient at process large amounts of fluids but with minimal pressure loss. The fluid has multiple paths to flow through the cooler. The more plates or rows means more capacity and more cooling potential.